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Author Topic: Tranny cooler and remote filter install - Ford truck  (Read 1765 times)
Stangmata
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« on: June 21, 2006, 05:32:11 AM »

I didn't do this soon enough.  Brownbag

Thanks to Ox, Reptillikus, and Aikidoka for the help.

This was done with a large tube-and-fin style cooler, a perma-cool remote tranny filter mount from Summit, and the radiator was bypassed.

This was fairly simple. Here is the general layout:



Step 1: Mount the tranny cooler. There are many different brands, types, breeds, and sizes...so this won't be consistant between two coolers. Most stack type coolers have ears that you can use to mount them with. This cooler didn't have that, so we used a few small peices of metal, a drill, and some self tapping screws. Just get a little creative.





Step 2: If you are going to bypass your radiator, then simply cut the tranny lines (do it close to the radiator incase you make a mistake), and flare the line out on the trannsmission side of the line. You can pick up a cheap flare tool from Autozone for under $20. Just make sure that you have enough room to work.

Here is a good little writeup I found on flaring lines.

http://robrobinette.com/flare_brake_line.htm

Step 3: Once your line is prepped it's time to do something about the open ends at the radiator. I thought that they would be standard 1/4" NPT fittings, but it turned out they weren't. So instead, after cutting my lines, I just crimped them over. Done!

Step 4: Mount your remote tranny filter. Many people drill and tap into their frames for this, but I couldn't be bothered with that nonsense. Reptillikus had a sweet setup, so I stole his idea.

This is on the bracket that runs from the washer fluid resevior to the core support.





Step 4: Depending on the size of the inlet/outlet on your cooler, you will want to choose your lines somewhat carefully. I ran into a problem with the rubber hose being too small for the cooler - but perfect for the tranny lines. Slip the rubber hose over the hard lines and follow the diagram above. To hold the lines, I used high-pressure injection clamps. Overkill, but they are mad bling bling, yo.

And you're done!  Thumbup




Remote mount tranny filters can be found from Summit at the link below. I chose to get one with a tranny temp gauge opening. They come with a plug so that you don't need to put a temp gauge in right away.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=115+%2D119951&D=%2D119951
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« Reply #1 on: June 21, 2006, 06:47:15 AM »

Hmmm, sumthin looks familiar.............. Shrug
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TENNMAN74
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« Reply #2 on: June 21, 2006, 02:27:58 PM »

why not use the radiator and cooler?
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Stangmata
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« Reply #3 on: June 21, 2006, 02:38:35 PM »

why not use the radiator and cooler?

Kev explained it best, I think. If I use the radiator, at that point, the tranny fluid will only get as cool as the coolant. W/ the rad removed, I don't have to worry about that.

Looks like deleting the rad may run me up to 10* cooler.
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--IAN--
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1995 Bronco XLT 302. Mostly stock with custom rust.
A Veteran - whether active duty, retired, national guard, or reserve - is someone who, at one point in his life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America," for an amount of "up to and including my life."

That is honor, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it.

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« Reply #4 on: June 21, 2006, 04:39:55 PM »

I did pretty much the same thing with mine a month or 2 ago. I picked up a B&M Hi-Tek set up. Pretty nice, it's got a fan and a built in thermostat which turns on the fan at 160°. The remote filter was a Perma-cool kit.
Had to put the cooler in front of the radaitior,...which forced me to have to do some trimming of the backside of the grille.
Still have to put the gauge in but gotta finish the 3 pod pillar first. Can't say that I've driven it much so I can't really comment on improvements. I only drove it to that Noreaster event and back. But, on the drives up there before, it would bubble over a little. This time, I had bigger tires(more of a strain on the tranny) and it didn't bubble over at all. So far so good Thumbup Thumbup

I also bypassed the radaitor as well. For 2 reasons really.....I had read that alot of E4OD tranny's problems had stemmed from the radiator tranny cooler tubes getting clogged. I wanted to make sure that NO crap was able to be washed into my new cooler! And I also had considered the temp's...one fluid heating up the other and vice versa. (later read a few repair threads and seen a few diagrams of the cooler for the tranny, I don't see what there is really to clog. It's just a(single) large tube inside the radiator...)

Oh, forgot,...I did put that brand new selonoid pack in the tranny and a trans-go shift kit in it while I was at it Wiggle Tongue Still plan or replacing that other pack on the outside of the tranny though.. Brownbag
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« Reply #5 on: June 22, 2006, 03:49:02 AM »

Just remember...fluid is fluid  The Finger
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« Reply #6 on: June 22, 2006, 04:28:36 AM »

 Cheers  nice job stang!
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TENNMAN74
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« Reply #7 on: June 22, 2006, 05:39:39 AM »

I have had a few small coolers before that I ran after the radiator before the trans.now I have an old a/c condensor converted to trans with a electric fan on it.works great.
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imlikeojnow
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« Reply #8 on: June 23, 2006, 06:48:41 PM »

i jsut mounted mine like that i was wondering about it beoing mounted like that so i went out and did it real quick. works like a champ.  but i am still using my in radiator cooler as well.  figure that is one of the reason i got the 4 row so i will use it.  awesome write up man thanks

ken
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